| Although the Big Island's main resort is officially called KAILUA ,
and its postal address is "Kailua-Kona," you're likely to hear it
referred to as Kona as often as not. It's reasonably attractive, and has
played its part in Hawaiian history, but its summer-holiday seafront of
fast-food restaurants and souvenir shops could be anywhere; and the wind-borne
"vog" means that the atmosphere can be as bad as in Los Angeles or
London.
The Town
Hulihee Palace (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; $5) faces out to
sea from the center of Kailua. Built as the governor's residence in
1838, it's not all that imposing from the outside. Within, it's notable
for massive koa -wood furnishings, made to fit the considerable girth of
the various members of the Hawaiian royal family who later lived here,
such as the redoubtable 400-pound Princess Ruth. The 1836 Mokuaikaua
Church directly opposite was the first in Hawaii, and part of it has
been set aside as a museum of the early days of Hawaiian Christianity. A
peculiar "sausage-tree" from Mozambique, named after the elongated fruit
that dangles from its branches, grows in the church grounds. Nearby,
King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel dominates the northern end of the bay.
King Kamehameha's funeral rites were performed in the ancient temple of
Ahuena Heiau , which juts into the sea in front of its beach.
Some of the world's best fishing, snorkeling and scuba spots are
approached by sea from Kailua. Expensive two-hour tours on Atlantis
Submarines ($79, under-12s half-price; tel 808/329-6626) descend one
hundred feet to a coral reef, accompanied by the Star Wars theme, to see
a frenzy of feeding fish and the occasional lurking shark. The catamaran
Fair Wind ($80; tel 808/322-2788) goes to Kealakekua Bay, for snorkeling
and a bit of scuba. If you fancy chartering a boat to fish for the big
ones, contact the Charter Desk (tel 808/329-5735, ); rates start at $75
for a half-day.
|
